- This topic has 3 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 3 weeks, 2 days ago by
.
-
Posts
-
All,
Last December Club member Don Heetderks (KJ5EQS) took what I would characterize as an electrical “demonstration board” and set it up at the back of the room at High Cotton Kitchen. His board showed a mix of low voltage lighting and charging options and an inverter and solar panel. He took the time to show those that were interested just how much could be done with low voltage, an inverter, etc. I took a picture and chatted with him and he offered that he had some notes I could use to make a forum post. He graciously supplied those, along with some additional material about water transport, treatment and storage as well as other preparedness planning tips and considerations that he has accumulated. I have incorporated his notes into one post below.
Emergency Preparedness: Off-Grid Basics – Power, Water, Heat, Light & MoreWater is one of the most basic needs of life. You can last 3 weeks without food but only 3 days without water. In a power outage or emergency, focus on reliable low-voltage systems, safe water handling, heating, and lighting.
1. Basic Low-Voltage Electrical System
Start simple: A battery + trickle charger + lights. Upgrade with solar for battery charging (add charge controller & panels). With enough solar and a larger battery, add an inverter for 120V AC to run some appliances.
- Sorfia Dimmer Switch (DC 12V-24V PWM LED dimmer with remote control for brightness adjustment and memory function – great for low-voltage LED lighting setups): https://a.co/d/g6xmB8m
- LeMotech DC Converter (useful for stepping down/up voltages in 12V systems): https://a.co/d/jhFmsaN
Electrical Load Test Tip: Use a noisy appliance like a vacuum cleaner. Plug it in, turn it on, then flip breakers until the noise stops. Note what else (lights, outlets) is on that circuit. This helps identify what to connect to a generator transfer switch.
Questions to Ask Yourself:
- Are your house devices (flashlights, etc.) standardized to AA or AAA batteries? Do you have a way to recharge them?
- For electronics (phones, radios), do you have charging options? Consider a car battery adapter with multiple USB ports.
2. Water Systems – Pumping, Storage, Filtering, Treatment & Usage
2.1 Pumping Water Need to move water? Use a 12V pump (battery-powered) or 120V pump (via inverter). Pumps often have hose or pipe threads.
- High-performance 12V Pump (SEAFLO 33 Series – 3.0 GPM, 45 PSI, self-priming, run-dry safe, built-in pressure switch – ideal for RV, marine, off-grid water systems): https://a.co/d/0d4FyUNL
Pumps with built-in pressure switches turn off automatically when you close the faucet.
2.2 Water Storage
- 7-Gallon Rigid Water Container (spill-proof design with easy-to-use spigot – perfect for outdoor/emergency storage and transport): https://a.co/d/gYHXfZp
2.3 Filtering & Sanitizing Water
- Inline cartridge filter: Easy to add – removes sand, leaves, etc. Good for animals and flushing toilets.
- For transport: A ~300-gallon cube in a crate often has 2” NPT – convert to hose thread for easy hookup.
- For drinking, dishes, cooking: Sanitize first (e.g., with chlorine), then filter to remove chlorine taste/odor.
Red Neck Hand Washing Setup: Filtered water in a gallon jug with a nail on a string for outside cleanup.
2.4 Water Treatment with Chlorine Treat water using unscented household liquid bleach (5.25–8.25% sodium hypochlorite – check label; avoid perfumes/dyes/additives).
- Standard Dosage: 8 drops of 6% bleach per gallon (16 drops if cloudy). Filter cloudy water first.
- Contact time: At least 45 minutes (Giardia can survive up to 45 min in chlorinated water; some sources say 30 min minimum).
- Alternative: Pool Shock (Calcium Hypochlorite) – Store powder in glass container (good for 10+ years). Mix 2/3 tsp in 1 gallon water for ~600 ppm solution (equivalent to bleach). Test: Aim for 4 ppm or lower (safe); higher irritates. Let dissipate if too strong. Keep pH 6.5–8.5.
- Chlorine smell/taste: Aerate/circulate until safe (not like pool water).
2.5 Showering & Usage
- Heat water separately and mix in a 5-gallon bucket.
- Rechargeable Camping Shower (6000mAh battery, 4 spray modes, LED display for temperature monitoring – IPX7 waterproof): https://a.co/d/j6vDcFG
For septic: Your aerobic system float switch can be bypassed manually to drain during generator runtime (about 1 hour).
3. Heating (Propane Options)
Use indoor-rated propane heaters with safety features (auto shut-off, oxygen depletion sensor). Ventilate well; never use unvented/outdoor models indoors without proper setup. Great for emergencies.
- Patented Radiant Heater (connects to 1 lb propane cylinders, heats up to 450 sq ft, auto shut-off): https://a.co/d/gzS78jM
- Compact Propane Heater (adjustable 4,000–9,000 BTU radiant heat – for campsites, workshops, patios): https://a.co/d/5BNAje4
Propane Accessories:
- DOZYANT Propane Torch Extension Hose (12 ft or 5 ft options): https://a.co/d/demEKNo and https://a.co/d/fwSSypY
- TOHONGADON Propane Hose Adapter: https://a.co/d/0sptwV2
- Stansport Propane Converter: https://a.co/d/bFUGN0z
- Camco / Stansport Propane Distribution Post: https://a.co/d/cQkedur and https://a.co/d/hemYs6I
- Propane Hose Adapter: https://a.co/d/1Unk5T6
4. Lighting
- Coleman Lantern (up to 1000 lumens, adjustable bright light – for camping/outdoor/emergency use): https://a.co/d/79OG1Gy
- Lantern Mantles (replacements for gas lanterns): https://a.co/d/7qFfIeD
This setup prioritizes low-voltage/12V compatibility first, then builds out water and other needs. Products are Amazon affiliate-style links for easy sharing.
What do you Club members think? Can anyone contribute any additions (e.g., solar specifics, battery brands, or ham radio tie-ins for comms during outages)?
I can easily envision a scalable plan where one or more solar panels, a charge controller, a modern LiFePO4 battery, RV switches, low voltage wiring and some lights could go a long way towards keeping things pretty well illuminated during a power outage. Air conditioning for summer issues is not addressed in this post, but the addition of something along the lines of what he offered above, some equivalent heating options available seasonally from Tractor Supply (available year around online – link here) with some set aside (completely full) propane bottles could make a huge difference, without the need for an expensive generator system.
ADDED: Don says that if anyone has any questions on any of the material above you may email him here.
73
Phillip Beall (W5EBC)
All,
After working with Don to make the post above I met him for lunch and we went over it some more. He asked that I add a hyperlink to his email in the post (done) and he wanted me to add this standalone post that if anyone has any questions about the post above, please DO contact him at this email.
73
Phillip Beall (W5EBC)
All,
After working with Don to make the post above I met him for lunch and we went over it some more. He asked that I add a hyperlink to his email in the post (done) and he wanted me to add this standalone post that if anyone has any questions about the post above, please DO contact him at this email.
73
Phillip Beall (W5EBC)
All,
In a conversation with Don we discovered that the link to the 12V water pump in the original post above had gone bad. I have corrected that link, but while doing so I ran across an interesting variation on the same idea that I thought was worth adding to the discussion.
SEAFLO offers a 33-Series 12V water pump and accumulator tank system that combines the same basic 3.0 GPM / 45 PSI pump concept with a small pre-pressurized accumulator tank:What caught my attention is the accumulator tank.
With the pump by itself, opening a faucet causes system pressure to drop and the pump cycles on to restore it. With an accumulator, there is a pre-pressurized air cushion behind a diaphragm. The pump first compresses that air while putting water under pressure in the tank. When you subsequently open a faucet—particularly for a small amount of water—the compressed air can push some of that stored water into the plumbing without requiring the pump to start immediately.
That provides several useful benefits in an emergency/off-grid installation:
Less pump cycling — the pump does not have to start and stop for every small demand for water.
Reduced battery use — fewer motor starts are particularly attractive when your water system is being powered from a 12V battery/solar setup.
Longer pump life — reducing frequent starting and stopping reduces wear on the pump.Smoother water flow and pressure — the accumulator acts as a cushion between the pump and the faucet.
Quieter operation — particularly useful in an RV, cabin, or improvised emergency water system.
Less pressure shock in the plumbing — the air cushion helps absorb pressure fluctuations rather than transmitting every pump start and stop directly into the plumbing.
The package is also already assembled with the pump, strainer and accumulator tank on one mounting plate. The 12V version is rated at 3.0 GPM, with the pump switching on at approximately 35 PSI and off at 45 PSI.
For the sort of emergency system we were discussing earlier in this thread—stored water, a 12V battery, perhaps solar charging, some hose or PEX and a faucet or shower—this strikes me as a particularly nice refinement. It gives you something much closer to the behavior of a conventional household pressurized water system while still operating entirely from 12V DC.
The accumulator is not a huge water-storage tank; its value is in storing pressure and supplying those brief or low-flow demands without unnecessarily cycling the pump. That is especially useful when every amp-hour in the battery matters.
I thought it was an interesting addition to Don’s original preparedness ideas and worth passing along.
73,
Phillip Beall (W5EBC)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.